Distance and Time required: 5.8km | 2h

Elevation gain: 76mt

Difficulty: Facile

Starting Point: Parking in Via Monterumici Treviso

Short description: The Ancient Gates of Treviso: an unusual itinerary tracing the city’s history through its 16th-century access points — Porta Santi Quaranta, Porta San Tommaso, and Porta Altinia. We’ll walk along the city walls and then through the historic center. A must-stop is the Vecia Hosteria dai Naneti.

Stroller/Wheelchair accessible: Yes

The Walk

Today Sebastian and I are heading into the city for a medieval-themed walk, exploring the 16th-century gates of Treviso.
These were built by the Venetian Senate when it became clear that Treviso would end up on the frontline, facing off against European armies trying to stop Venice’s expansion inland.

We park the car in Via Monterumici, then head toward Viale Montegrappa (right by the Sotreva car dealership). We follow the sidewalk to the right until we reach the "Put" — the road that runs along the outer edge of the city.

We cross over and right in front of us stands Porta Santi Quaranta, complete with its Lion of Saint Mark. Sebastian, though, is more interested in the nearby cannon. He starts asking a barrage of ballistic questions: “How did they light it? Where did the cannonball go? How far could it shoot?” and so on.

We walk through the gate and officially “enter” the city. Then we turn left and climb up onto the walkway along the old city walls — a wide, tree-lined avenue.

It’s all new to Sebastian, and he’s taking it in with big curious eyes. As we get near the roller-skating rink parking lot, he says: “Wow Dad, look at all the cars!”
I smile, and we keep walking. The bell tower of San Francesco Church peeks out from between the buildings, and near the end of the walkway there’s a big pigeon party going on.

We spot the dome of Porta San Tommaso ahead and head that way. The inside of the gate is pretty bare, but if you walk through it to the outside, you’ll see gorgeous classical decorations and, of course, the winged lion.

We come back inside the city walls and go straight into Borgo Giuseppe Mazzini, then turn onto Via San Girolamo Emiliani. Sebastian is drawn to the shop windows, but there are no toys to admire — just clothes for moms.

At the intersection ahead, we glimpse the apse of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore through the buildings. We turn right, and suddenly we’re standing in front of the church’s façade. We go inside and find the fresco of the Madonna and Child, where you can spot the chains of Saint Jerome Emiliani — founder of the Somascan Fathers.
But what catches Sebastian’s eye is the ball and chain tied to the saint’s foot. “Look Dad, another cannonball!” The cannon at Porta Santi Quaranta clearly made an impression. Let’s just hope he doesn’t ask for one for his birthday.

Back outside, we turn right and follow the road until it becomes Via Tolpada, which we walk all the way down. We pop out in front of the Treviso Castle. From there, we go right into Piazza Garibaldi, reach the university’s wooden bridge, cross over, then turn right again and immediately left into Via Reggimento Italia Libera.

I explain to Sebastian what a university is, and he tells me he wants to get a degree in Italian, history, and geography — his favorite subjects.

We pass the San Paolo Bastion (remains of the old walls), then turn right into Via Fratelli Bandiera. After about 120 meters, we take a small lane to the right (Largo Altinia). Through the trees, we spot the last of the 16th-century gates: Porta Altinia. We walk through it and back into the city.

Straight ahead, under the archway of Hotel Continental, are two red marble chairs. According to legend, Attila and Bishop Elviano sat there when the bishop came out to plead with the Hun king to spare Treviso after the destruction of Altinum.

Our walk continues along Via Roma. At the Tim store intersection, we turn left and make our way to Palazzo dei Trecento.
I glance at Sebastian — he looks deep in thought, probably still dreaming about that cannon. I ask, “Wanna grab a panino (sandwich)?” He nods. After all, he’s been walking non-stop until now. We stop at Vecia Hosteria dai Naneti, one of Treviso’s most iconic spots, and order two panini to eat outside at a table.

Then we hear carousel music floating through the air. Sebastian’s eyes light up. In Piazza dei Signori, there’s a merry-go-round. He inspects every animal and settles on... the elephant!
Off we go! After the ride, I still have one euro in my pocket and we spot one of those capsule machines that gives you a “crazy ball” toy. Perfect way to wrap up the day. Sebastian asks, “Dad, why is it called a crazy ball?” I tell him, “Throw it and see... but gently!” He drops it, and the ball bounces around in every direction.
Luckily, I manage to stop it with my foot just before it rolls under the carousel.

After all that fun, it’s time to get walking again. We head down Calmaggiore toward the Duomo. From there, we turn left and then quickly right onto Via Riccati.

We walk the whole way down until we reach Borgo Cavour. A few more steps to the left and — there it is again — Porta Santi Quaranta. The car’s just around the corner.

Photos

Track Gps

What to See

Porta Santi Quaranta: built in 1516 by the podestà Andrea Vendramin, who tore down an older gate to make room for it. At first it was called Porta Vendramina, but in 1691 the Venetian Senate had his plaque removed and renamed the gate after the Forty Martyrs of Sebaste. Cannons were once placed above and below the entrance!

Porta San Tommaso: another 1500s gate, this one faces toward the road to Pontebbana and is the grandest of all Treviso’s gates. It’s decorated with classic-style stonework made of white Istrian stone. Definitely a head-turner.

Church of Santa Maria Maggiore: locals call it the "Madona Granda" (the Big Madonna). It was built in the 11th century over an older church and is where Saint Jerome Emiliani converted to Catholicism. Today it's a special place for the Somascan Fathers and one of Treviso’s most beloved churches.

Porta Altinia: the simplest of Treviso’s old gates, made with exposed brick and just a few decorations. The top looks a bit like a watchtower. As the name says, this gate once connected Treviso to Altino, and from there to Mestre and Venice.

Refreshment Points

Vecia Hostaria dai Naneti in Vicolo Broli 2 in Treviso - Tel. 340 378 3158

Curiosities

The gates mentioned above and the Church of the Madona Granda are closely tied to the reconstruction of Treviso’s city walls, carried out by Fra' Giocondo to defend against the military campaigns of the League of Cambrai (a coalition of European powers united against Venice’s expansion on the mainland).
The church, located too close to the new walls, was slated for demolition. The demolition work began from the apse, but when they reached the fresco of the Madonna and Child—an artwork deeply venerated by the townspeople and attributed to Tommaso da Modena—the citizens rose up in protest.
Their devotion was so strong that the Venetian Senate was fo>rced to halt the demolition. The part of the church between the fresco and the façade was thus spared and remains intact to this day.